The Other Side of Suits
When you think of a suit jacket or a blazer, this sort of image pops into your head, I assume:
And you are, of course, correct in your way of thinking. However, what if I told you there was another jacket style with even more stylistic flair while still retaining its classy demeanour? Introducing the double-breasted suit: a classic that is making a triumphant comeback. Before we get into this blog, familiarise yourself with the image below.
Now that you have this beautiful piece of art in mind, let's explore the other side of suits.
History of Double-Breasted
Double-breasted suits have a rich history behind them, dating back to the 19th century. Like with its single-breasted brother, the double-breasted suit has a history rooted in the military, with the first ones being seen in British naval uniforms. These uniforms provided additional warmth and protection with their overlapping button design and resemble the modern peacoat.
In the late 1800s, the double-breasted suit made its way into civilian fashion as a more casual alternative to the tailcoat and continued to gain popularity up to the 1940s. With rationing taking place during World War II, the double-breasted suit saw a decline in popularity, with more men opting for the lower-costing single-breasted suit.
The 80s were the peak time for double-breasted suits, with their popularity being greater than ever. Being popularised by Wall Street, the style embodied power and success. Suits of this era featured padded shoulders, bold pinstripes and wide lapels.
A Classic Appeal
Up until now, double-breasted suits have been out of the limelight. However, with a resurgence in classic menswear in recent years, these garments have made a resurgence, looking more spectacular than ever. Whether you want a refined outfit for the office or want to add this classic item into your wardrobe for some extra personality, it is undeniable that the double-breasted suit is here to stay and it belongs in your wardrobe.
The Parts of a Double-Breasted Suit
As mentioned above, a double-breasted suit has fabric which overlaps when buttoned and two rows of buttons. That is a very basic overview of the suit, but there is more to it than that. Here are the parts of the double-breasted suit.
Lapels
Double-breasted suits should always feature peak lapels. Avoid notch lapels at all costs. Peak lapels enhance the visual effect the jacket creates, as well as adding to the formality of the jacket.
The Buttons
Single-breasted suits typically come in three options: one, two or three buttons. Double-breasted suits add more variety with their many button combinations. With this variety comes a whole new naming convention. To identify button styles, we use the format of (number of functional buttons) on (total number of buttons). For example, the typical double-breasted jacket pictured at the start of this blog is a two on six or a 2×6 jacket.
How To Wear a Double-Breasted Jacket
You may think the same rules apply for double-breasted as single-breasted jackets, which is true to an extent, but there are a few differences and extras. Just like on a single-breasted jacket, never fasten the bottom button: it will throw off the appearance of the suit. Unlike single-breasted jackets, when seated, never unfasten your double-breasted jacket. The jacket must always remain fastened, or you will have excess fabric flapping around and look like a fool. When fastening your jacket, never forget the anchor button: the inside button which ensures the inner layer remains in place when the jacket is being worn.
Buying a Double-Breasted Suit
Many brands these days offer double-breasted suits in their catalogues, giving you an option no matter what your budget is. Purchasing a second-hand double-breasted suit is not something I would recommend, as they are designed to have a wider fit and will not provide you with the silhouette you desire. Modern double-breasted suits are more slim-fitting to the body, allowing you to look smart and sleek in this wonderful garment.
What do you think? Are double-breasted suits the latest fashion or should they stay in the past? Let me know in the comments. Check out The Art of Style eBook to look even more spectacular in your suits.